1606: the beginning of a long love-story
Turin - Italy's chocolate capital
Towards modern chocolate-making
Between the two world wars
Chocolate today
1606:
the beginning of a long love-story
In the early 17th century (1606), a Florentine merchant,
Francesco Carletti, returned from the New World and
described cocoa paste as "small cakes which the Indians
call chocolate". This preparation aroused the great interest
of the Italians, who immediately perfected the art of making
fine chocolates.
Italians have always taken their chocolate seriously. From
1606 onwards, the art of chocolate-making developed in Venice
and Florence. In 1678, the king licensed the Turinese baker,
Antonio Ari, "to sell a chocolate drink" that was
later to become the most popular drink in town, called "bicherin"
- "little glass" - because it was served in a small glass
with a metal base and handle.
From then on, the art of making fine chocolates
thrived in Turin and throughout Piedmont.
Turin
- Italy's chocolate capital
By the end of the 17th century Turin had already become
Italy's chocolate capital: 750 pounds of chocolate were
produced each day by local chocolate-makers and even exported
to Austria, Switzerland, France and Germany. Piedmont, the
region which is still Italy's main chocolate-producing region
to this day, is also the cradle of the famous "pasta
gianduia" - the delicious paste made of chocolate
and Piedmontese hazel or filbert nuts. For what was to become
Italy's chocolate delicacy was created one day during the
Carnival period in 1867, taking the name of Turin's
traditional stock-character, Gianduia. The chocolate had to
be blended with filbert or hazelnut because the Kingdom found
it difficult to import sufficient quantities of cacao around
1860.
Turin also lays claim to the creation of miniature chocolates:
they were as small as acorns, hand-made cocoa
paste, and called givu.
Towards
modern chocolate-making
In 1802, a Genoese engineer named Bozelli designed
a hydraulic machine to refine cocoa paste and blend it
with sugar and vanilla, with a daily production capacity
of 700 pounds of chocolate. This was the first step towards
modern chocolate-making: in 1815, an enterprising young man
named François Louis Cailler travelled to Turin, learned
the tricks of the chocolate trade, and returned to Switzerland
to plant the seed of what was to become the country's greatest
claim to fame.
While, in 1884, Russia's Tsar Alexander III was commissioning
the first surprise egg of gold and precious
stones from the jeweller Fabergé, Italy's producers
were introducing chocolate Easter eggs containing a
novelty gift inside.
Between
the two world wars
During the period between the two world wars, miniature chocolates
became popular with the Italians, with an imaginative assortment
of different flavours and packaging. Some of the most popular
favourites were the "boeri" (named after the South
African Boers, who declared war on the British), the "neapolitans"
and the "gianduiotto", named after the Turinese stock-character,
Gianduja.
Chocolate
today
Italy's chocolate industry imported over 113,000 tons of
cocoa in 2000, and manufactured 285,150 tons of chocolates
with tantalisingly delicious flavours.
Every manufacturer jealously protects their recipes, whose
distinguished qualities are the result of a careful blending
of cacaos of different qualities, each with their own taste,
aroma and flavour. But blended above all with an all-Italian
history.
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